What is Brandy Hellville about? HBO documentary explained

Daisy Phillipson
Still from Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion

Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion has arrived on HBO — here’s what the documentary is about, who’s in it, and if it’s worth watching. 

HBO is behind some of the greatest documentaries on the circuit, with its latest offerings characterized by quality production, diverse subjects, and in-depth explorations.

A few recent examples include The Truth About Jim and Great Photo, Lovely Life, both of which deal with dark family secrets. Among Dexerto’s best true crime docs of 2023 was HBO’s Love Has Won, about the titular cult and its leader Amy Carlson. 

Now the channel has turned its focus to Brandy Melville, the clothing company that capitalized on the birth of influencer culture. Here’s everything you need to know about the documentary.

What is Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion about?

Eva Orner’s Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion examines allegations of a toxic, racist work culture at Brandy Melville, its troubling “one size fits all” approach, its practice stealing from other designers, the impact of fast fashion on the world, and the shadowy figure at the center of it all, CEO Stephan Marsan. 

Check out the trailer below: 

As stated by HBO, Brandy Melville became the “must-have” clothing brand for young girls across the world in the Tumblr era of the 2010s. Utilizing emerging social media platforms such as Instagram, it exploded into stores across the world, with teens yearning to fit into the ‘one size fits most’ clothes. 

The documentary deep dives into the discriminatory work practices that were a part of the job description at Brandy Melville. Numerous former employees recall how POC were made to work in the stockroom or behind the cash registers, while the white staff were out the front greeting customers. 

What’s more, many of the young teens who worked at Brandy stores had to pose for a “daily photograph.” Although this was said to be “brand research,” the images were sent to and kept by Marsan.

The documentary also takes a look at the wider issue of fast fashion, and how brands such as Brandy Melville are contributing to the collective spike in production and consumption of cheap clothing. The filmmakers travel to Accra, Ghana, a place that has become like a dumping ground for discarded textiles. 

The synopsis finishes by stating: “From the microcosm of one cult-like brand to the universal detriments of disposable clothing, Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion exposes a wide system of exploitation within the global fashion industry.”

Who’s in Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion?

Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion features a series of former Brandy Melville store employees who are identified by only their first names, including Willow, Melissa, Lee, Kali, Isabela, and Marta. It also features former executives who remain totally anonymous. 

Alongside ex-Brandy Melville staff, the documentary interviews a number of industry insiders and experts, including: 

  • Kate Taylor, investigative journalist
  • Alyssa Hardy, former Teen Vogue fashion editor
  • Liz Ricketts, The Or Foundation
  • Sammy Oteng, The Or Foundation
  • Chloe Asaam, The Or Foundation
  • Ayesha Barenblat, CEO of Remake Advocacy Group
  • Matteo Biffoni, Mayor of Prato, Italy
  • Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange
  • Matteo Mantellassi, Manteco s.p.a. executive
  • Marco Mantellassi, Manteco s.p.a. executive
  • Franco Mantellassi, Manteco s.p.a. executive
Still from Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion
The Or Foundation aims to identify and manifest alternatives to the dominant model of fashion

Is Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion worth watching?

Although it’s too early for a Rotten Tomatoes score, Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion has received a number of positive reviews, with critics urging viewers to give it a watch to learn more about Brandy Melville and the wider issue of fast fashion.

Decider recommended streaming it, writing: “This film is essentially about two vicious sides of the fashion industry, and the one brand that represents the worst of both. Even though many of us know in our hearts that fast fashion is bad news, the film puts faces to its victims and clearly illustrates just how wasteful and destructive it is.”

Josh at the Movies added, “While I may not have been able to grasp the scope of Brandy Melville, as I was slightly aged out of its target market at its peak, I still found all the chaos surrounding it exceptionally intriguing.”

Elsewhere, Loud and Clear Reviews said, “The subjects’ recollections of events with their past employer feel authentic, and the documentary allows each subject ample time to detail their stories.”

Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion is available to stream on Max now. For more fresh content, take a look at all the new TV shows hitting streaming this month, as well as the movies to add to your watchlist.

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About The Author

Daisy is a Senior TV and Movies Writer at Dexerto. She's a lover of all things macabre, whether that be horror, crime, psychological thrillers or all of the above. After graduating with a Masters in Magazine Journalism, she's gone on to write for Digital Spy, LADbible and Little White Lies. You can contact her on daisy.phillipson@dexerto.com